Training 1
The next following pages are base upon the basic training information a Marine Cadet needs to know.
R4 UNIFORM CLEANING TECHNIQUES
“CLEANLINESS IS NEXT TO GODLINESS”
The above phrase is one many will have heard at some point in your life. During your time as a cadet, you may wonder why staff “nitpick” about the state of your uniform, marine’s even more so. Here is why. The Marines work in 8 man sections that break down to 2 four-man teams. Each man knows the strengths and weaknesses of each other man in that section. If 1 man goes down ill/injured, then you have a seven-man section, with 1 man to look after/care for. So, what does this have to do with personal hygiene and drill? When a recruit first joins the Marines, the4 first person he meets is the Drill Instructor, or DL (Drill Leader). The DL will act as the recruit troops “mother” for the first 2 weeks training. He will teach the recruit to wash, iron, march, make their bed. Everything. Recruits are taught how to wash themselves. This is because Marines do a majority of work “in the field” and Marines are self-sufficient. If a Marine can’t be trusted to wash himself, look after his clothes/ weapons, then he will get an infection, his kit/ weapon wont work, and he will be a liability to his section. So, when Marines are inspected, every thing is looked at, from your beret to your boots. By the way, in the Marines, the DL IS god, so when you here the phrase “cleanliness is next to godliness” , you know it was said by a Marine.AND THAT GOD IS A ROYAL MARINE DRILL LEADER. CRAP HAT- This can be put in a normal wash with your other “camouflage” clothing. BERET- when you get your beret from new, you need to take out the plastic square patch from inside, and the size sticker. You then need to get 1 bowl of hot water, (as hot as you can stand, but not boiling) and a bowl of cold water. Place the beret into the hot water (if the beret has a leather band, do not get it wet). Then squeeze the water out (carefully) and place the beret in cold water (mind the leather band). Squeeze the cold water out. Place the beret in your head and shape to the style you want it. You have to sit with it on your head (whilst wet I’m afraid) while the beret takes shape. After you have worn it for a few hours, carefully take it off your head, whilst keeping the shape you want, and leave to dry over night. Brush clean every parade night. When clean place in a plastic bag (not your pocket) to keep it clean. COMBAT JACKET - This can be put on a normal wash with your other “camouflage” clothing. Iron when washed. ( NB there are no creases ironed into a combat jacket, they are ironed out). COMBAT TROUSERS - These can be put on a normal wash with your other “camouflage” clothing. Iron when washed. (NB combat trousers are ironed flat, no creases in the leg). WOOLY PULLY - THIS ITEM MUST NOT BE WASHED ON A NORMAL WASH.When first issued, HAND WASH only. (NB parents sometimes put in the washing machine on a WOLLENS wash /40 degree Wash. As long as it doesn’t shrink, you wont get billed). Allow to drip dry, DO NOT TUMBLE DRY. Warm iron the jumper only. The elbow and shoulder pads need ironing too. BEWARE of the Velcro on the shoulder, DO NOT IRON THESE. COMBAT SHIRT - This is olive green in colour, and may be washed with “camouflage” clothing. It is ironed with a crease from shoulder to cuff on each arm. The crease is ironed parallel from the shoulder to the thumb. (You will be shown this). When wearing a woolly pully, you will still be checked to see if you have ironed your shirt. LIGHTWEIGHT TROUSERS - These can be put on a normal wash with your other “camouflage” clothing. Iron when washed. They should be pressed with sharp creases down the front and rear of each leg. COMBAT 95 SHIRT - This can be put on a normal wash with your other “camouflage” clothing. Iron when washed. The shirt is ironed flat, with sharp creases from the shoulder to the cuff on each arm. (NB when in “95”rig, A t-shirt is worn underneath, it is worn as “short sleeve order”. The cuffs are folded over 5 times, so that it hangs just above your elbow. This applies in winter also. COMBAT 95 TROUSERS - These can be put on a normal wash with your other “camouflage” clothing. Iron when washed. They should be pressed with sharp creases down the front and rear of each leg. COMBAT BOOTS - Clean off all dirt, including the sole (underneath) of the boot. Apply black polish to the whole boot, including the sole. Allow to dry, then brush up boots to a shine. The sole of the boot is polished so that it is clean, and all polish has been removed.Laces should be removed for polishing. WHITE CAP - Use a soft nailbrush and warm soapy water. Do not let soapy water get onto the red band. DO NOT use Blanco/plimsoll whitener, as it will run in the rain. Clean the red band with a small clothes brush. Polish the peak with a J cloth and a small bit of furniture polish. If you do have to take the cap badge out, be careful. They are not metal, and bend easily. When clean, place in a plastic bag for storage and travelling. DO NOT handle the white area of the cap with your hands, then you wont have to clean grubby marks off. NO 1 BLUES JACKET - THIS IS DRY CLEAN ONLY. When you take it to be dry cleaned, take off the shoulder badges, and the collar dogs (the metal badges on the collar). Also inform the dry cleaners that the buttons are plastic, as it has been known for dry cleaners to try to remove them, thinking they are brass. The creases in the arm are quite unusually sighted, so you will be shown where they go. When it has been dry cleaned, put the jacket in a suit bag. This will stop dust and fluff getting to it. (NB when you use your blues, take them off and hang them up in a suit bag straight away. This will mean less dry cleaning bills). Make sure you put the shoulder badges and collar dogs back on for use. NO1 BLUES TROUSERS - THESE ARE DRY CLEAN ONLY. These should be pressed with sharp creases in the front and back of each leg. When they have been dry cleaned, hang them in a suit bag also. (NB Again when you use your blues, take them off straight away and hang them up in the suit bag. This will mean less dry cleaning bills). NB - NEVER APPLY AN IRON DIRECTLY TO BLUES JACKET OR TROUSERS.IF YOU WISH TO SHARPEN YOUR CREASES, PUT A DAMP CLOTH ON THE CLOTHES, AND IRON OVER THE DAMP CLOTH. WHITE GLOVES - These should be washed on a whites wash, or hand washed only. WHITE BELT - The white belt can be put in with a whites wash. For stubborn marks, use a nailbrush and soapy water to clean. BRASSES - clean your brasses with Brasso. This is either liquid form or comes in a “wad”. When you have polished them, wipe off the Brasso. Look out for Brasso getting stuck in grooves near the buckle, use a toothbrush under warm water to remove this. When clean, wrap them in a yellow duster and place in a small bag that can be sealed. This stops the air getting to them and tarnishing them. Just give them a quick buff when required. Careful not to leave finger marks when putting Brasses onto the white belt. BLACK/GREEN SOCKS - Use green socks when wearing green clothing. Use black socks when in blues. BLACK T-SHIRT - Wear a black t-shirt under the blues jacket. Trust me, you itch like a madman if you don’t. GREEN T-SHIRT - Wear a green t-shirt when in combat 95 rig. BRACES - Yup, braces, and granddad ones at that. These are braces that have buttonholes, not clips on them. These are used to hold up your NO1 BLUES TROUSERS. Preferably dark in colour. PARADE BOOTS - These are polished the same way as combat boots, ALL OVER. But the TOE CAP AND HEEL are polished to a very high shine. The laces must go up “ladder” style, not crisscrossed. HAIR - Hair should be short, neat, and off the collar. No extreme hairstyles, or colourings. FACE - The face must be clean-shaven, and sideburns must be no lower than the bottom of the ears. NO PIERCINGS OF ANY SORT, FACIAL OR OTHERWISE ARE PERMITTED. JEWELLERY - When in uniform, jewellery is not permitted. R4 UNIFORM CLEANING TECHNIQUES